Have you ever wondered just what your dog gets out of licking you?

Most dogs are so intent on the licking process that you know there has to be a good reason for doing it.



Some people say the dog’s licks are canine kisses that prove the dog likes or loves you. Fido is showing you that he cares about you. While this may be one reason that dogs lick people, it is clearly not the only reason why they perform this act.

Another theory is that dogs lick you because they were taught to do so by their mother from birth. Female dogs that give birth lick the new puppies to stimulate them to start breathing and to clean them up. Licking is important to the survival of puppies. The licking process is a natural instinct that they quickly learn from their mothers.

Licking is also a submissive gesture. In the wild, the more subordinate dogs will lick the more dominant ones. This helps to maintain harmony among the members of the pack. By licking you, the dog is showing you that you are the dominant being and you are in charge.

Another reason that dogs lick humans is to gather information about them. Dogs use the scent receptors located in their nose and mouth to process information about a person. A person who is secreting sweat from his or her body is actually unknowingly sending information about him or herself to the dog. This is one reason why a human’s feet are so attractive to a dog. Human feet contain many sweat glands. Eccrine glands release moisture that contains salts, water and waste products. Some dogs love the taste of salt.

Sebaceous glands, which are found near hair follicles, release sebum. The combination of the sweat and sebaceous gland secretions provide a lot of detail about you to an inquisitive dog that can tell if you are afraid, stressed or happy.

Dogs also enjoy licking because the act releases endorphins that allow the dog to feel pleasure and a sense of security and comfort.

In some cases, a dog will go all out to lick his or her owner’s face, hands or legs when strangers are around. Experts believe that this could be the dog’s way of showing that you are important to them and that they care more about you than they do the stranger.

While dogs do have good reasons for licking people, some folks don’t understand nor do they care to try to grasp why they are being slobbered on. It is important to train your dog in a manner that he or she does not get carried away with the tendency to lick people.

 
Heys guys
so lately Jay has been licking my hands, but also my mouth when he can, my feet, toes and anything he can, I wanted to know why?

People say its love but I didnt fully believe its a love thing, I think it was sometimes affection depending on his facial expressions and body language, sometimes comfort for himself, sometimes he likes the smell on the thing he is licking or the taste.

( never thought my toes would taste so good :) haha )

anyway I thought id do some digging around to find out on an animal level what out dogs want to communicate with us when they lick us.

I found out Licking releases pleasurable endorphins which gives dogs a feeling of comfort and pleasure — like the feeling people get when they are biting their nails — it relieves stress.  If your dog's licking is purely a sign of affection, one way to decrease this is to ignore the licking. Licking never gets attention.  If  your dog licks you, then you immediately stand up and walk into another room. You want to teach your dog that licking means the person will leave the room.  When you pet your dog, if he starts to lick, the petting stops and you walk away. With repetition the licking will stop.

If a dog is chronically licking himself, it can be because he is bored, anxious, has skin problems such as allergies, or could be feeling pain either in their paws or elsewhere in their bodies.  You should make sure your dog is getting enough stimulation and rule out any infections or allergies by visiting your vet. 

I personally dont mind the licking, it isnt excessive in jays case and it does seem to be an affection thing.

But there is more ...

Right from birth that is how the mother communicates with her new puppies, how she stimulates them to start breathing and how she cleans them when they are born, so it's very important to the survival of puppies.  In the wild and in domestic dogs, you’ll find they will lick around the mother’s mouth as newborns and puppies still retain that instinct.  It’s also sort of a submissive gesture — the more subordinate members of a pack will lick the more dominant members and that’s important in maintaining pack harmony. 


For the most part, it’s a sign of affection. From the day they were born, their mother licked them to clean them and stimulate them. Because of that, licking is connected to their very earliest social bonds, so it’s a significant part of their social signals. People aren’t exaggerating when they call it puppy kisses – a dog who licks you is showing you love. It’s why your dog licks your hand happily when you walk in the door, and why many dogs will lick you after you’ve been petting them. They’re returning the friendly gesture.

 

Another reason why dogs lick you is to learn about you. Smell may be their strongest sense, but they learn a lot from what they taste as well. That’s why they lick other dogs in greeting, and why they lick people. In the wild, wolves lick other wolves’ mouths to determine if they’ve eaten and if a food source is nearby. Taste tells them a lot more than just how to fill their belly, however, especially in domesticated dogs. What they taste when they lick you tells them about your chemical composition, which can clue them in to other things about you. Human hormones and chemicals vary based on everything from our health to our mood, so they may be able to tell a lot about our state of being by licking us.

 

Dogs may lick people because they like the taste. My friend has a dog who loves the taste of lotion – she would eat it from a bowl if she could – so she’ll lick lotion off people’s hands and feet as long as they let her. Another dog i know loves the taste of metal and tries to eat all metal items, thats not such a good taste to become addicted too. Dogs also tend to like salty, savory flavors. Human sweat is loaded with sodium, so if you’ve ever noticed your dog licking your feet after a workout, it’s because of the flavor.

  ( see there we go again, kinky dog liking our feet)

Licking is also a sign of respect and submission for dogs. They’ll lick higher-up pack members to show acceptance of that member’s higher rank. If your dog lays down and licks your feet, that’s likely their way of showing respect for your authority.

 

Occasionally, licking is a sign of anxiety. Dogs enjoy licking, so they will sometimes lick as a way of comforting themselves. It usually shows itself as licking themselves or licking objects, but they may lick you for relief as well. If you think your dog has anxiety, consult your vet for confirmation and how to handle it.

Overal don't worry to much about your dog licking it is affection to us, comfort to them, learning for them, signs of submission, just keep a look out for when it becomes excessive or compulsive, then you may need to step in.

for now learn love and enjoy your moments together.



 
Picture
So ive been taking Jay out to the beach , and while down there met up with my cousin and her pugs and french bulldogs, jay loves to play with them and they nibble on each other, well today he had blood all over him, when I looked he had lost 4 teeth at the front which made me want to find out more about puppy teething.

Overview
Dogs have two sets of teeth in their lives: puppy teeth and adult teeth. Adult dogs generally have 42 teeth, although some breeds have more and the spaniel breeds have less. Most dogs lose their puppy teeth and possess their full set of adult teeth by the time they are eight months old.

Newborns
Puppies are typically born without any teeth at all.
Baby teeth, called deciduous teeth, appear when puppies are between two and four weeks old.
Puppy Teeth
Most puppies have 28 teeth, with 14 teeth on the top and 14 on the bottom. Puppies typically have all of their baby teeth by the time they are two months old.
Teeth Types
Puppy teeth consist of canines, incisors and pre-molars. Puppies don't have full molars, because they rarely need to grind their food.Losing TeethPuppies generally start shedding their deciduous teeth when they are 12 to 16 weeks old.
Adult teeth erupt just a few days later. Owners rarely find baby teeth, because puppies typically swallow them.TeethingPuppies find relief from teething discomfort by chewing on anything within their reach. The teething phase can last up to five months, and is usually accompanied by excessive drooling.

 
Surviving the Night with your New Puppy


"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times."

-Charles Dickens (he must have had a puppy)

That Dickens quote really sums up what it's like having a puppy. There's nothing more exciting than bringing your new puppy home, playing with him and kissing him on his cute little nose... it's the best. And there's nothing more horrifying than realizing that puppies seem to pee and poo constantly and finding out that they have zero respect for your need to sleep at night... it's the worst.

We'll break it to you as gently as we can. If you have a new puppy, you're not going to get a solid 8 hours sleep for a while. If you accept that fact, it'll be easier to do the necessary training to teach your puppy to sleep through the night.

Most puppies aren't able to sleep through the night when they first come home to their new owners, but almost all puppies sleep through the night by the time they're 16 weeks old. With proper training and scheduling, you should be able to teach Fido to do it even earlier.

Sometimes even adult dogs are unable to sleep through the night without waking up for a potty trip when they first come to a new home. The stress of coming to a new environment and adjusting to a new schedule and possibly a new food can wreak havoc on your new dog's digestive system. The instructions that follow will work for him, too. The good news is that if he's 6 months or older, it'll probably be just a few nights of adjustment before you'll be able to get a full night's sleep.

Where Should Your Puppy Sleep? This training will work best if your puppy is in your bedroom so you know what he's up to. He'll also be more likely to settle in and sleep if he's in the same room with you instead of alone in a new, unfamiliar environment.

If you aren't willing or able to have little Fido in your room at night, you can do this training with him in another room. If you do this, you might try leaving music, a fan, or a white noise machine on, since the sound may help to soothe and relax him. Since you won't be able to hear Fido if he starts to fidget or fuss when he needs to go potty, you'll need to be extra responsible about getting in there to take him out to potty at regular intervals.

You'll most likely have your puppy sleeping in his crate overnight, so, along with this article, you should also read our article about "Acclimating Your Puppy to his Crate". If necessary, you can get additional help from our articles that teach you what to do if Fido barks in his crate or goes potty in his crate.

Amazon.com offers free shipping on many of their dog crates. Click on this link and look for "Free Super Saver Shipping" to find the right crate for your puppy.

If you're doing indoor potty training, your puppy can sleep in his confinement area with his bed and access to his potty area. If you don't want him to be by himself in another area of the house, you can crate him in your bedroom overnight. You should not create an additional indoor potty area for him in your bedroom unless you plan to have one there long-term, so using the crate overnight and his confinement zone with potty area during the day works well for many puppy owners.

An exercise pen is a good option for your puppy's confinement area. Click here to buy a pen for your pup at Amazon.com with free shipping!

Preparing Your Puppy for Bedtime What you do with Fido in the evening will have a big impact on how well he'll sleep (and how well YOU'LL sleep) at night. Puppies sleep a lot, so he'll probably try to snooze for much of the evening. If you allow this to happen, of course, he'll wake up refreshed and ready to rock and roll at bedtime or in the middle of the night. Don't let Fido sleep too much in the evening... run around in the yard with him, play with him, have your friends come over to visit him and keep him busy. We want him to be good and tired by the time bedtime rolls around.

Fido shouldn't have food or water before going to bed, either, for obvious reasons. If he goes to bed with a full belly and bladder, you're pretty much guaranteed a rough night. Generally, it's best to avoid giving Fido food or water for 3 hours before bedtime. Rarely, a puppy needs to have access to food and water very frequently due to medical issues. This is most common with small-breed puppies. If you have any concern that this may be the case with your puppy, please talk to your vet before setting up Fido's feeding schedule.

Be sure that you have everything you'll need for a potty trip set up and readily accessible before you go to bed so you won't have to scramble around looking for it in the middle of the night. Have something to wear (slippers and robe, shoes and jacket, etc.), Fido's leash if you'll be using it, a flashlight if you need it, poo pick up bags if you'll need them. When you wake up later, you'll be glad everything's ready to go.

Be sure to give your puppy a few chances to empty out during the evening and make sure the very last thing you do before going to bed is take him out to potty, even if he's asleep and you have to wake him to do it.

Your Puppy's Overnight Potty Trip Overnight potty trips are a little different from potty trips during the day. During the day, you play with Fido and fuss over him after he relieves himself. If you do that at night, you'll have big problems, since Fido will start waking you up just to have a party! Overnight potty trips are strictly business. Take him directly to his potty area and give him a couple of minutes to go. When he goes, calmly tell him he's good, take him back inside, put him in his crate and go back to bed.

Some dogs, especially young puppies, are so sleepy when you take them out that they just lay down in the potty area and try to go back to sleep. This doesn't necessarily mean he doesn't need to go potty... he's just so sleepy he hasn't noticed yet that he needs to go potty. If Fido does this, you should encourage him to move around a bit. You can pick him up and put him back on his feet if you need to... whatever it takes to get him to wake up and get down to business.

When you're up with Fido in the middle of the night, you shouldn't talk much to him, and you shouldn't play with him, take him for a long, fun walk or give him treats, food, water or a chew bone. If he gets to do cool stuff when he wakes up in the middle of the night, he'll start waking you because he wants some attention or a midnight snack. We want him to learn that nighttime is for sleeping and nothing fun happens when he wakes up in the middle of the night.

Overnight Scheduling for Your Puppy Anticipating and preparing for Fido's need to go potty in the middle of the night is the key to training him to sleep though the night as quickly as possible. Most puppy owners just go to sleep in the middle of the night with their fingers crossed, hoping little Fido will be okay until morning. Not a good plan. He'll likely either have an accident in his crate or start barking and crying in the middle of the night to go potty. When he starts barking, his half-asleep, groggy owner stumbles around in the dark, looking for his slippers and MAYBE gets Fido out for a potty trip before it's too late.

Aside from the obvious problems with that plan, there's the really big problem... that Fido learns he can wake you up by yipping and yowling. Once he learns he has control of whether and when you sleep or wake up, he'll likely wake you up earlier and more often. When you plan his nighttime schedule properly and in advance, you'll be taking control and you'll be able to make wake-up times later and less frequent. A much better plan.

The way to take control of overnight potty times is to set your alarm to wake you up in the middle the night, whether little Fido wakes up or not. We want to beat him to the punch... waking him before he's so uncomfortable that he wakes up and starts to fuss. This way, he never gets into the habit of making noise to wake you.

At first, you'll probably need to set your alarm to go off a few times at night, depending on your puppy's age at the time you're starting his program. If you start him when he's 7-9 weeks old, it'll probably need to be every 2 hours, from 9-14 weeks every 3 hours, 14 weeks and up, every 4 hours. These are general guidelines, of course, and you may find that Fido needs to go out more or less frequently.

If you've already been through a few hellish nights with Fido, you probably have some idea how long he can hold it, so you can base your scheduling on that. If your puppy has been waking up screaming every 4 hours, wake him up every 3 or 3 1/2 hours. The goal is just to catch him before his need to go becomes so critical that he starts barking and howling.

Once you've got Fido on a schedule of waking up at intervals during the night, you're going to start to push it so he sleeps longer. This is where the program starts to pay off... since you've taken control of the nighttime schedule, you can adjust the wake up times and work toward the holy grail of puppy training... sleeping through the night.

Once you've been able to wake Fido up and take him out to potty on schedule with no barking, howling or accidents in the middle of the night for three consecutive nights, you can move on. What you're going to do now is set your alarm for 15 minutes later for each potty trip. So, if you've been waking Fido up at 1:30, 3:30 and 5:30, you'll now start waking him at 1:45, 3:45 and 5:45. After another three good nights, you'll move all 3 potty trips ahead by 15 minutes again.

Keep moving the potty trips ahead until the last potty trip coincides with your wake up time. Congratulations... you're now down to two potty trips instead of three! And if you keep pushing ahead by 15 minutes at a time, you'll soon be down to one, then NONE!

What if Your Puppy Barks or Cries Overnight? Sometimes, you'll get lucky and find that Fido is so knocked out by the excitement of coming to his new home, he'll just sleep like a rock. Sometimes, you won't be so lucky. If your puppy is making noise in his crate when you first put him in, it's likely he's just unhappy about being closed in there, since all of this is new to him. You'll find help for this problem in Acclimating Fido to his Crate and What to do When Fido Barks in his Crate.

if your puppy starts barking, howling or whining in the middle of the night, there's a good chance he needs to go potty, so you should take him out for a quick potty trip as outlined above, even if it isn't his scheduled time to go. Although we don't want Fido to get into the habit of thinking he can wake you up as often and as early as he likes by barking and crying, we need to play it safe, so he should get a chance to relieve himself any time he gets noisy. You should not ignore his crying if it occurs spontaneously in the middle of the night, since you run the risk of forcing him to go potty in his crate and starting him on the path to habitually soiling his crate. This will mess up your housebreaking program and make a lot more work for you in the long run, so get up and get his little butt out for a potty trip!

 
What to do When Fido Barks in his Crate
If you're going to crate train Fido, you'll need to teach him to stay quietly and comfortably in his crate. Many dogs and puppies will bark or whine in their crates or dig, scratch and bite at the crate in an attempt to get out. This isn't unusual and is fairly easy to resolve with most dogs. This article will teach you how to train most dogs to be quiet while confined to a crate.

Safety Note: Occasionally, dogs do panic in the crate to a degree that makes it impossible to crate train them. This is characterized by drooling, shaking, getting hurt trying to escape from the crate or otherwise seeming excessively stressed. If your dog is displaying any of these signs of panic, you may not be able to crate train him. Consult with an experienced, professional dog trainer and your vet about helping Fido with his anxiety or try another housetraining method, such as umbilical cord training or dog door training.

If your dog is showing a normal level of displeasure at being closed in his crate, be sure that you've introduced him to his crate properly before you try correcting him in any way. The steps to this process are outlined in our "Acclimating Fido to his Crate" article. If you've followed the proper steps to acclimate Fido to his crate, but you're still finding that he barks, whines, cries or howls in the crate, you'll need to do a bit of work to teach him to be quiet in his crate.

Be Sure Fido's on a Reasonable Schedule First, you should assess Fido's feeding schedule, potty schedule and exercise schedule. If you put him in his crate when he's just had something to eat or drink or when he hasn't relieved himself for a while, he'll understandably be on edge when closed in his crate. Feed Fido at least 90 minutes before closing him in his crate and take him out to potty just before you put him in.

If Fido isn't getting enough exercise and he's got a case of energy overload, that may also contribute to frustration and naughty behavior in the crate. Fido needs regular exercise in the form of walks, hikes, and playing with people or other dogs. It isn't fair to close him up in his crate if he hasn't had any activity, so make sure he's on a reasonable exercise schedule. It may be helpful to really wear him out with some extra exercise on the first few days you're working on crate training, since he'll be less likely to fuss if he's really tired.

Poor Fido! Most dog owners feel sorry for Fido when he starts to bark and whine, thinking he's scared and lonely. The problem with feeling sorry for Fido when he's fussing in the crate is that your feeling will probably lead you to do all the wrong things and you'll worsen the problem instead of fixing it.

When you feel sorry for Fido you're likely to take him out of his crate or try to soothe him when he makes a fuss... or both. If you do either of these things, you reinforce Fido's naughty, noisy behavior. If you talk to him to try to soothe him, he learns that when he gets loud, he gets attention from you. If you let him out, he learns that acting crazy gets him what he wants... freedom! This will not only cause problems with your crate training, it can extend to other areas of life with Fido... the next thing you know, he'll be barking to get you to feed him, pet him, let him inside or outside, etc.

One of the most common mistakes that people make when crate training their new puppy or dog is giving in to barking or whining overnight and bringing Fido up on the bed. It's tempting to do whatever it takes to quiet him down when you're not getting any sleep, but don't think you'll just do it that first night and he'll be better in the crate tomorrow. Why would he ever be good sleeping in the crate overnight if he knows that if he barks loud enough and long enough, he'll get to come up there with you, the down pillows and the 300 thread count sheets?

Don't feel sorry for Fido. He's got a good life. You're giving him love, attention, exercise, good food and a nice place to live. All you're asking in return is that he sometimes hang out in his crate alone so you can have a life and get some sleep!

Bad Fido! On the other end of the spectrum are the people who are TICKED OFF at Fido and ready to wring his neck. This isn't good, either, since you'll tend to over correct him, correct out of anger and hold a grudge. None of these things are going to help.

Remember, even though Fido's being a bit of a brat, he doesn't know any better. He's learning something new that may not be entirely pleasant for him, and he's doing what comes naturally to try to get the heck out of that crate. Even though correction may need to be part of your training program, you want to be in the frame of mind of educating Fido rather than punishing him. This will allow you to correct with appropriate timing and intensity, something you can only do when you're clearheaded and not seething with anger.

Yes, this part of your training can be frustrating, and it's not always fun, but anger and inappropriate corrections will only make matters worse. Keep your cool!

Try the Easy Stuff First Be sure you give Fido something extra special and yummy to chew on that he gets only when he's in his crate. This can be a raw marrow bone, a pig ear or a hollow toy stuffed with peanut butter, cream cheese or canned dog food (if you worry this might give Fido diarrhea, mix in some kibble or white rice before stuffing the toy). If you use the hollow toy, freeze it after stuffing it... this way it'll get hard and keep Fido busy for a longer period of time.

If Fido's really not happy about being in his crate, he might ignore his yummy treat while he's in the crate, then try to pick it up and take it with him when he gets out. He must not be allowed to have it outside of the crate. When you let him out of his crate, take it and put it away, bringing it out to give to Fido only when he's in his crate. Once he realizes that crate time is his only chance to enjoy it, he'll likely settle down to chew when you put him in his crate.

Another easy fix that works with some dogs is covering the crate with a crate cover, blanket or towel. Some dogs are overly stimulated and can't settle when they can see everything going on around them. Covering the crate helps to prevent Fido from responding to outside stimulation and creates a cozy, secure environment that may calm him and quiet him down.

If Fido starts barking whining or crying when he hears noises in the house or outside, it may be helpful to play music or have a fan or white noise machine running near his crate. The sound can relax him and it will mask much of the outside noise that's causing Fido to get worked up.

If the Easy Stuff Doesn't Work, Time for the Tough Stuff If Fido's still making all that noise, it's time to add some correction. If Fido realizes he doesn't get anything good (attention or freedom) from fussing and he also learns that something bad (correction) happens when he's loud, you'll be able to get him to settle down. Dogs (like the rest of us) tend to repeat things that get good results and tend to avoid things that get bad results. So, our plan is to first let Fido see that he doesn't get the positive results he wants from barking, and instead gets negative results when he's loud. Once he quiets down to avoid the correction, he'll learn that being quiet and calm gets positive results, since we'll only be letting him out of the crate when he's being a good boy.

Please do not just skip ahead to correcting Fido without properly acclimating him to his crate and taking the steps above to try to quiet him down. These corrections are intended to be used only after you've tried everything else. There are several corrections detailed below. If one doesn't work, move on to another. If none of them work, contact an experienced, professional dog trainer for help.

Consider Fido's temperament when deciding how strong to be with the corrections. If he's a tough guy, you'll likely need to be pretty firm. If he's the more sensitive type, start with a mild correction and gradually try stronger corrections if the mild ones don't work. You want to use only as much correction as it takes to get a response from Fido.

Fido will be more responsive to corrections if you do some obedience training with him. Working on commands will help him to understand the concept and context of correction, so you'll have a better chance of getting good results if you do some obedience training along with Fido's housebreaking program.

What if Fido's not being crate trained, but he's still noisy when confined? If you're training Fido using another confinement method, such as a small room or an exercise pen, you can still use the methods outlined in this article to work on his barking problem, with the exception of the "earthquake" correction, which can only be done if your dog is in a crate.

Quiet! We're going to teach Fido the word "quiet" as his command to stop making noise. When you do any of the corrections below, you'll begin by saying "quiet!" in a firm voice as you give the correction. In the beginning of training, the command and the correction will come at the same time to teach Fido to associate the word and the correction. Once he's responding well to the correction, if you find that he still occasionally starts making noise in his crate, you'll say "quiet" first, then follow through with a correction only if Fido doesn't stop making noise when you give the command. This way, he learns that he can avoid correction completely by responding appropriately to the word "quiet".

Earning His Freedom Letting Fido out of his crate at the right time is a critical part of this training. You should never let him out when he's being bratty, of course. We want to reward him for being quiet for increasingly longer periods of time. At first, you'll let Fido out of his crate if he's quiet for 10 seconds, then gradually wait longer and longer until you can leave him in the crate for extended periods with no fussing.

Shake Can A shake can or "penny can" is used to make a loud, unpleasant sound when Fido is doing something he shouldn't. It is very effective for most dogs, though some may not be effected by it, especially hunting breeds that have been bred to not be gun-shy. You can buy a shake can or easily make your own by emptying a soda can, rinsing it out, putting in 15 pennies and putting a piece of tape over the hole on the top of the can.

When Fido starts fussing, shake the can firmly and use the "quiet" command as detailed above. Fido should respond by quieting down, even if only for a couple of seconds at first. You'll most likely need to repeat the correction several times... just because you do it once and he resumes barking doesn't mean it isn't working.

If you don't see any response at all from Fido or if he's still being noisy in the crate after a few practice sessions, you can make the shake can correction stronger by banging the can against the crate. If you still see no results, you should try another form of correction.

A couple of things to consider if you're training Fido using the shake can. We don't want him to learn to be fearful of loud noises, so be sure that you're socializing Fido and taking him out in the world to get used to traffic noise, construction noise, etc.

If the shake can is effective for teaching Fido not to bark, it can be tempting to start shaking it at him anytime he does anything you don't like. This isn't a great idea, since the can will lose its effect if it's overused and the can isn't the right correction for all innapropriate dog behaviors. You should consult with a dog trainer before using the shake can for other behaviors.

The Earthquake This is a very effective correction for small dogs or puppies that are in small crates that are light enough to lift. When Fido starts fussing, lift his crate off the ground and give it a little shake, using the "quiet" command as detailed above. This works best if Fido doesn't see you doing it, so do it from the back side of the crate or with a crate cover, towel or blanket over the crate.

You'll probably need to repeat this correction several times before seeing consistent results. If you don't see results, try another correction method.

Spray Bottle This one has some downsides, but, for some dogs, it's a very effective correction. Take a regular household spray bottle (one that hasn't had cleaning products or strong chemicals in it) and fill it with water. When Fido starts fussing, spray water in his face, using the "quiet" command as detailed above.

Some dogs love water and will think this is great... if Fido's that kind of guy, discontinue using this correction. If he seems responsive to the correction, it may take a few sessions to see consistent results, so don't get discouraged if he's not perfect after your first session.

The downside to this command is that Fido might end up a sopping wet mess, so consider whether or not that's going to be a problem for you before trying this correction.

Please do not add anything to the water to try to make the correction more effective. People often recommend adding lemon juice or peppermint or citronella oil to the water to enhance the correction, but these can get in Fido's eyes and cause him a lot of discomfort. If water alone doesn't do the trick, try another correction.

Leash Corrections This correction is to be used only for dogs who have had some obedience training and have had experience with leash corrections. Put Fido's leash and collar on him before putting him into his crate. Thread his leash through the wire mesh panel of Fido's crate, preferably on the top of the crate if you're using a wire crate or on the front end of the side panel if you're using a plastic crate. When Fido starts fussing, give a quick, sharp pull on his leash, using the "quiet" command as outlined above.

As with the other corrections, expect to have to do multiple practice sessions before getting reliable results. If this method doesn't work, try one of the other methods.

SAFETY NOTE: DO NOT leave Fido unattended in his crate with the leash and collar for any period of time. This is not safe and could lead to serious injury or death.

Fido's Being Quiet (sort of)... What to do About Whining Now that you've been correcting Fido, you might find yourself in a situation where he's being a lot quieter, but he's still making a little bit of noise. Many dogs go from hooting and hollering to quietly whining after they've been corrected for making all that noise. Don't correct Fido any further if he's substantially decreased his volume.

The whining lets you know that he's still stressed and wanting to make noise, but he's trying to restrain himself since he knows you don't want him to bark. We never want to correct Fido when he's trying to be good, so you'll need to put up with the squeaking for a little while. It will usually go away within a few days, once Fido's resigned himself to the fact that he can't make all that noise in his crate anymore.

If the whining turns into barking or howling, of course, you can go back to correcting him to settle him down.

Fido's Been Doing Great and Suddenly Starts Getting Loud in the Crate If Fido's been a quiet, civilized gentleman and he suddenly starts getting freaky in the crate, there's a good chance he needs to go potty. Better safe than sorry... take him out for a quick potty trip, then put him right back into his crate. If he did have to go potty, you'll know that he's being a good boy and is only using all of that noise to let you know he needs a potty trip. If he didn't need to go potty, you might have a faker on your hands. In that case, of course, you can go back to addressing his noisy behavior using the methods outlined above.

 
 
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Boxer (dog) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search Boxer Plain fawn Boxer, uncropped and undocked Other names
  • German Boxer
  • Deutscher Boxer
[hide]Traits Weight Male 66–70 lb (30–32 kg)
Female 55–60 lb (25–27 kg) Height Male 22–25 ins. (57–63 cms.)
Female 21–23.5 ins. (53–60 cms.) Coat short, shiny, smooth, close-lying Color fawn or brindle, black mask, with or without white markings Litter size average 6–8 Life span average 9–10 years[1] [show]Classification and standards Dog (Canis lupus familiaris) Developed in Germany, the Boxer is a breed of stocky, medium-sized, short-haired dog. The coat is smooth and fawn or brindled, with or without white markings. Boxers are brachycephalic (they have broad, short skulls), and have a square muzzle, mandibular prognathism (an underbite), very strong jaws and a powerful bite ideal for hanging on to large prey. The Boxer was bred from the Old English Bulldog and the now extinct Bullenbeisser and is part of the Molosser group.

Boxers were first exhibited in a dog show for St. Bernards in Munich in 1895, the first Boxer club being founded the next year. Based on 2011 American Kennel Club statistics, Boxers are the seventh most popular breed of dog in the United States for the second year in a row, moving down from sixth where they were ranked for the previous three years.[2]

Contents Appearance Head and body proportions. Flashy brindle Boxer, cropped and docked Fawn and Brindle The head is the most distinctive feature of the Boxer. The breed standard dictates that it must be in perfect proportion to the body and above all it must never be too light.[3] The greatest value is to be placed on the muzzle being of correct form and in absolute proportion to the skull. The length of the muzzle to the whole of the head should be a ratio of 1:3. Folds are always present from the root of the nose running downwards on both sides of the muzzle, and the tip of the nose should lie somewhat higher than the root of the muzzle. In addition a Boxer should be slightly prognathous, i.e., the lower jaw should protrude beyond the upper jaw and bend slightly upwards in what is commonly called an underbite or "undershot bite".[4]

Boxers were originally a docked and cropped breed, and this tradition is still maintained in some countries. However, due to pressure from veterinary associations, animal rights groups and the general public, both cropping of the ears and docking of the tail have been prohibited in many countries around the world. A line of naturally short-tailed (bobtail) Boxers was developed in the United Kingdom in anticipation of a tail docking ban there;[5] after several generations of controlled breeding, these dogs were accepted in the Kennel Club (UK) registry in 1998, and today representatives of the bobtail line can be found in many countries around the world. However, in 2008, the FCI added a "naturally stumpy tail" as a disqualifying fault in their breed standard, meaning those Boxers born with a bobtail are no longer able to be shown (or, in some cases, bred) in FCI member countries. In the United States and Canada as of 2011, cropped ears are still more common in show dogs, even though the practice of cosmetic docking is currently opposed by the American Veterinary Medical Association.[6] In March 2005 the AKC breed standard was changed to include a description of the uncropped ear, but to severely penalize an undocked tail.

Coat and colors Boxers are either fawn (middle frame) or brindle (bottom frame), with or without white markings, which, when excessive are conventionally called "white" Boxers (top frame). The Boxer is a short-haired breed, with a shiny, smooth coat that lies tight to the body. The recognized colors are fawn and brindle, and/or white; Often with a white underbelly and white on the feet. These white markings, called flash, often extend onto the neck or face, and dogs that have these markings are known as "flashy". "Fawn" denotes a range of color, the tones of which may be described variously as light tan or yellow, reddish tan, mahogany or stag/deer red, and dark honey-blonde. In the UK and Europe, fawn Boxers are typically rich in color and are often called "red". "Brindle" refers to a dog with black stripes on a fawn background. Some brindle Boxers are so heavily striped that they give the appearance of "reverse brindling", fawn stripes on a black body; these dogs are conventionally called "reverse brindles", but that is actually a misnomer—they are still fawn dogs with black stripes. In addition, the breed standards state that the fawn background must clearly contrast with or show through the brindling, so a dog that is too heavily brindled may be disqualified by the breed standard. The Boxer does not carry the gene for a solid black coat color and therefore purebred black Boxers do not exist.

White Boxers Boxers with white markings covering more than one-third of their coat – conventionally called "white" Boxers – are neither albino nor rare; approximately 20–25% of all Boxers born are white.[7] Genetically, these dogs are either fawn or brindle, with excessive white markings overlying the base coat color. Like fair-skinned humans, white Boxers have a higher risk of sunburn and associated skin cancers than colored Boxers. The extreme piebald gene, which is responsible for white markings in Boxers, is linked to congenital sensorineural deafness in dogs. It is estimated that about 18% of white Boxers are deaf in one or both ears,[8] though Boxer rescue organizations see about double that number.[9][10] In the past, breeders often euthanized white puppies at birth; today, most breeders place white puppies in pet homes with spay/neuter agreements. White Boxers are disqualified from conformation showing by the breed standard, although in 2010, the German Boxer Club opened up an exhibition-only conformation class for white Boxers. They are prohibited from breeding by every national Boxer club in the world, but can compete in non-conformation events such as obedience and agility, and like their colored counterparts do quite well as service and therapy dogs.

Temperament The character of the Boxer is of the greatest importance and demands the most solicitous attention. He is renowned from olden times for his great love and faithfulness to his master and household. He is harmless in the family, but distrustful of strangers, bright and friendly of temperament at play, but brave and determined when aroused. His intelligence and willing tractability, his modesty and cleanliness make him a highly desirable family dog and cheerful companion. He is the soul of honesty and loyalty, and is never false or treacherous even in his old age. — 1938 AKC Boxer breed standard[11] Boxers are a bright, energetic and playful breed and tend to be very good with children. They are active, strong dogs and require adequate exercise to prevent boredom-associated behaviors such as chewing, digging, or licking. Boxers have earned a slight reputation of being "headstrong," which can be related to inappropriate obedience training. Owing to their intelligence and working breed characteristics, training based on corrections often has limited usefulness. Boxers, like other animals, typically respond better to positive reinforcement techniques such as clicker training, an approach based on operant conditioning and behaviorism, which offers the dog an opportunity to think independently and to problem-solve.[12][13] Stanley Coren's survey of obedience trainers, summarized in his book The Intelligence of Dogs, ranked Boxers at #48 – average working/obedience intelligence. Many who have worked with Boxers disagree quite strongly with Coren's survey results, and maintain that a skilled trainer who uses reward-based methods will find Boxers have far above-average intelligence and working ability.[12][13][14]

The Boxer by nature is not an aggressive or vicious breed but, when provoked, is a formidable guardian of any family or home and, like all dogs, requires socialization.[15] Boxers are generally patient with smaller dogs and puppies, but difficulties with larger adult dogs, especially those of the same sex, may occur. Boxers are generally more comfortable with companionship, in either human or canine form.

History For more details on this topic, see Bullenbeisser. The Boxer is part of the Molosser dog group, developed in Germany in the late 19th century from the now extinct Bullenbeisser, a dog of Mastiff descent, and Bulldogs brought in from Great Britain. The Bullenbeisser had been working as a hunting dog for centuries, employed in the pursuit of bear, wild boar, and deer. Its task was to seize the prey and hold it until the hunters arrived. In later years, faster dogs were favored and a smaller Bullenbeisser was bred in Brabant, in northern Belgium. It is generally accepted that the Brabanter Bullenbeisser was a direct ancestor of today's Boxer.[16] In 1894, three Germans by the names of Friedrich Robert, Elard Konig, and R. Hopner decided to stabilize the breed and put it on exhibition at a dog show. This was done in Munich in 1895, and the next year they founded the first Boxer Club, the Deutscher Boxer Club. The Club went on to publish the first Boxer breed standard in 1902, a detailed document that has not been changed much to this day.[17]

Friedrich Robert and his Boxer, 1894 The breed was introduced to other parts of Europe in the late 19th century and to the United States around the turn of the 20th century. The American Kennel Club (AKC) registered the first Boxer in 1904, and recognized the first Boxer champion, Dampf vom Dom, in 1915. During World War I, the Boxer was co-opted for military work, acting as a valuable messenger dog, pack-carrier, attack dog, and guard dog. It was not until after World War II that the Boxer became popular around the world. Taken home by returning soldiers, they introduced the dog to a wider audience and soon became a favorite as a companion, a show dog, and a guard dog.

Early genealogy Boxer early genealogy chart The German citizen George Alt, a Munich resident, mated a brindle-colored bitch imported from France named Flora with a local dog of unknown ancestry, known simply as "Boxer", resulting in a fawn-and-white male, named "Lechner's Box" after its owner. This dog was mated with his own dam Flora, and one of its offspring was a bitch called Alt's Schecken. George Alt mated Schecken with a Bulldog named Dr. Toneissen's Tom to produce the historically significant dog Mühlbauer's Flocki. Flocki was the first Boxer to enter the German Stud Book after winning the aforementioned show for St. Bernards in Munich 1895, which was the first event to have a class specific for Boxers.[16][17]

The white bitch Ch. Blanka von Angertor, Flocki's sister, was even more influential when mated with Piccolo von Angertor (Lechner's Box grandson) to produce the predominantly white (parti-colored) bitch Meta von der Passage, which, even bearing little resemblance with the modern Boxer standard (early photographs depicts her as too long, weak-backed and down-faced), is considered the mother of the breed.[18][19] John Wagner, in The Boxer (first published in 1939) said the following regarding this bitch:[20]

Meta von der Passage played the most important role of the five original ancestors. Our great line of sires all trace directly back to this female. She was a substantially built, low to the ground, brindle and white parti-color, lacking in underjaw and exceedingly lippy. As a producing female few in any breed can match her record. She consistently whelped puppies of marvelous type and rare quality. Those of her offspring sired by Flock St. Salvator and Wotan dominate all present-day pedigrees. Combined with Wotan and Mirzl children, they made the Boxer. Breed name The name "Boxer" is supposedly derived from the breed's tendency to play by standing on its hind legs and "boxing" with its front paws. According to Andrew H. Brace's Pet owner's guide to the Boxer, this theory is the least plausible explanation.[18] He claims "it's unlikely that a nation so permeated with nationalism would give to one of its most famous breeds a name so obviously anglicised".

A brindle boxer. German linguistic and historical evidence find the earliest written source for the word Boxer in the 18th century, where it is found in a text in the Deutsches Fremdwörterbuch (The German Dictionary of Foreign Words),[21] which cites an author named Musäus of 1782 writing "daß er aus Furcht vor dem großen Baxer Salmonet ... sich auf einige Tage in ein geräumiges Packfaß ... absentiret hatte". At that time the spelling "baxer" equalled "boxer". Both the verb (boxen [English "to box, to punch, to jab"]) and the noun (Boxer) were common German words as early as the late 18th century. The term Boxl, also written Buxn or Buchsen in the Bavarian dialect, means "short (leather) trousers" or "underwear". The very similar-sounding term Boxerl, also from the Bavarian dialect, is an endearing term for Boxer.[22] More in line with historical facts, Brace states that there exist many other theories to explain the origin of the breed name, from which he favors the one claiming the smaller Bullenbeisser (Brabanter) were also known as "Boxl" and that Boxer is just a corruption of that word.[22]

Boxers on the first Boxer exhibition, Munich 1895 In the same vein runs a theory based on the fact that there were a group of dogs known as Bierboxer in Munich by the time of the breed's development. These dogs were the result from mixes of Bullenbeisser and other similar breeds. Bier (beer) probably refers to the Biergarten, the typical Munich beergarden, an open-air restaurant where people used to take their dogs along. The nickname "Deutscher Boxer" was derived from bierboxer and Boxer could also be a corruption of the former or a contraction of the latter.[23]

A passage from the book "The Complete Boxer" by Milo G Denlinger states:

It has been claimed that the name "Boxer" was jokingly applied by an English traveler who noted a tendency of the dog to use its paws in fighting. This seems improbable. Any such action would likely result in a badly bitten if not broken leg. On the other hand, a German breeder of forty years' experience states positively that the Boxer does not use his feet, except to try and extinguish a small flame such as a burning match. But a Boxer does box with his head. He will hit (not bite) a cat with his muzzle hard enough to knock it out and he will box a ball with his nose. Or perhaps, since the German dictionary translates 'boxer' as 'prize-fighter' the name was bestowed in appreciation of the fighting qualities of the breed rather than its technique. Boxer is also the name of a dog owned by John Peerybingle, the main character on the best selling 1845 book The Cricket on the Hearth by Charles Dickens, which is evidence that "Boxer" was commonly used as a dog name by the early 19th century, before the establishment of the breed by the end of that same century.

The name of the breed could also be simply due to the names of the very first known specimens of the breed (Lechner's Box, for instance).

Health See also: Dog health A healthy, three-month-old white boxer puppy. Leading health issues to which Boxers are prone include cancers, heart conditions such as Aortic Stenosis and Arrhythmogenic Right Ventricular Cardiomyopathy (the so-called "Boxer Cardiomyopathy"), hypothyroidism, hip dysplasia, and degenerative myelopathy and epilepsy; other conditions that may be seen are gastric dilatation and torsion (bloat), intestinal problems, and allergies (although these may be more related to diet than breed).[24][25] Entropion, a malformation of the eyelid requiring surgical correction, is occasionally seen, and some lines have a tendency toward spondylosis deformans, a fusing of the spine,[26] or dystocia.[27] Other conditions that are less common but occur more often in Boxers than other breeds are hystiocytic ulcerative colitis (sometimes called Boxer colitis), an invasive E. coli infection,[28] and indolent corneal ulcers, often called Boxer eye ulcers.

According to a UK Kennel Club health survey, cancer accounts for 38.5% of Boxer deaths, followed by old age (21.5%), cardiac (6.9%) and gastrointestinal (6.9%) related issues. Average age of death was 9 years and 8 months.[29] Responsible breeders use available tests to screen their breeding stock before breeding, and in some cases throughout the life of the dog, in an attempt to minimize the occurrence of these diseases in future generations.[30]

Boxers are known to be very sensitive to the hypotensive and bradycardiac effects of a commonly-used veterinary sedative, acepromazine.[31] It is recommended that the drug be avoided in the Boxer breed.[32]

As an athletic breed, proper exercise and conditioning is important for the continued health and longevity of the Boxer. Care must be taken not to over-exercise young dogs, as this may damage growing bones; however once mature Boxers can be excellent jogging or running companions. Because of their brachycephalic head, they do not do well with high heat or humidity, and common sense should prevail when exercising a Boxer in these conditions.

Uses An older Fawn enjoys boating on Lake Lanier, South Carolina. Boxers are friendly, lively companions that are popular as family dogs. Their suspicion of strangers, alertness, agility, and strength make them formidable guard dogs. As puppies, Boxers demonstrate a fascinating combination of worried expressions, energetic curiosity, flexible attention spans and charming characteristics. They sometimes appear at dog agility or obedience trials and flyball events. These strong and intelligent animals have also been used as service dogs, guide dogs for the blind, therapy dogs, police dogs in K9 units, and occasionally herding cattle or sheep. The versatility of Boxers was recognized early on by the military, which has used them as valuable messenger dogs, pack carriers, and attack and guard dogs in times of war.




Thanks Wiki Pedia



 
So today me and my mum and dad have decided to visit a puppy in colchester with the intentions, of bring him home, as long as he is calm and relaxed, and like my mum said is cute haha.

We are looking for a good tempered Boxer to bring into the family.